Individualization of training qualified rock climbers on the basis of model characteristics of general and special physical fitness
Authors:
Andrey V. Shunko, Siberian State University of Physical Culture and Sport, Omsk, Russia, ORCID: 0000-0002-3041-5501, This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.
Tatyana A. Kravchuk, Siberian State University of Physical Culture and Sport, Omsk, Russia, ORCID: 0000-0001-8811-9134, This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.
Igor A. Zdanovich, Siberian State University of Physical Culture and Sport, Omsk, Russia, ORCID: 0000-0002-4384-4612, This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.
Elena V. Ginzhul, Siberian State University of Physical Culture and Sport, Omsk, Russia, ORCID: 0000-0003-2309-038X, This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.
Abstract:
Rock climbing as a new Olympic discipline requires the improvement of the training process of athletes, who represent our country in the international arena. Speed climbing in 2024 has a separate set of awards. It sets new challenges for this discipline development. Speed climbing differs from other rock climbing disciplines: short competition time (5-7 seconds); a large contribution of physical qualities to effectiveness (about 40%); repetitive competitive distance gives an opportunity to set records. Materials. The article considers the criteria and scales for assessing general and special physical fitness of climbers who specialize in speed climbing. We formed pedagogical conditions. They help to use an individualized approach to the training process: the scheme of pedagogical control use, the principles of pedagogical objectives determination and load distribution, the program of training during the macro cycle, complexes of exercises and the cards of an individual lesson. We substantiated the process of physical training organization in qualified rock climbers during a macro cycle. The results of the experiment are demonstrated connected with model characteristics use among athletes, who are masters of sports and candidate masters of sports. Research methods. Scientific and methodical sources analysis and synthesis, pedagogical experiment, mathematical-statistical research results handling. Results. Substantiated pedagogical conditions for educationaltraining process organization using model characteristics of general and special physical fitness of qualified rock climbers, who specialize in speed climbing, in the experimental group provided valid time of climbing change at a competitive distance (Р0<0,01). The experimental groups trained according to individual programs of physical training, based on not developed physical qualities improvement. The control groups trained according to the traditional program of physical training. Conclusion. Model characteristics of general and special physical fitness of the qualified rock climbers, who specialize in speed climbing, showed the effectiveness in the training process organization in national teams.
Keywords:
rock climbing, physical training, pedagogical conditions, model characteristics.
DOI: 10.14526/2070-4798-2022-17-1-19-26.